Now we are getting to the fun part – the acids and what they can do!
All peels have similar basic mechanics. We apply an exfoliating chemical to the skin to destroy epidermal and dermal structures. This in turn forces them to regenerate and create a better structure and visual improvement of the skin.
The simple concept is we are creating a controlled wound to stimulate regeneration of the skin.
Other common controlled wounding processes are CO2 and erbium lasers.
The type and percentage of acid directly correlates to the depth of the wound.
There are 4 depths of peels: Very superficial, Superficial, Medium, and Deep.
As you can see in the photo, some acids will work well on surface issues and others may be required to reach deeper levels. Most people doing peels at home will start off with a peel in the Very Superficial (VS) or Superficial (S) category. These are a great introduction to at-home peels.
This family of acids will be applied in a single layer to the skin, timed and then rinsed.
Here is a video that will walk through all of the acids we manufacture and what they are best used for.
Lactic [50] = excellent for pigmentation on the outermost layers of skin. This acid has a large molecule and is considered gentle. It is predominantly used for dry and sensitive skin types. Tiniest amount of dryness and possibly some visible flakes. (VS)
Glycolic [30-50-70] = great general acid for any type of issue. This acid has a very small molecular structure and is a common choice for normal and combo skin types looking for a general refreshening of the skin. Dryness and small flakes. (S)
Mandelic [22-40] = super choice for extended issues such as acne, pigmentation, and fine lines. Common choice for all normal, combo and acne skin types. Dryness and small manageable flakes. (S)
Salicylic [3-15-25] = perfect choice for oily skin and acne issues. This non-inflammatory acid is attracted to oil and will help to clear out clogged pores and reduce swelling in active blemishes. Dryness and manageable flakes. (S)
Vitamin A Dream Peel = Vitamin A can be used as a peeling agent in high percentages. The Dream Peel is applied 1, 2, or 3 nights in a row to get a nice, even all over peel. Another common use is to apply it as a finishing layer to a medium depth peel. Small, manageable flakes on its own or as an adjunct to increase flaking. (S)
Medium Peels
Moving up into the Medium (M) depth peels you will find those that can be layered after a set amount of time has gone by. This will greatly affect the strength of the peel. These can start off being a superficial peel – but will quickly graduate to medium depth with multiple layers *or heavy-handed applications.
Jessner = next step up in strength for acne, oily skin, and those with deep pigmentation issues. Safe for all skin coloring. Melanin prep preferred to help prevent PIH. Layer-able peel with dryness and a good deal of visible flaking on the skin. (M)
TCA [7-13-20-30] = next step for anti-aging, scars, and many skin issues. Layer-able peel available in multiple percentages. Melanin prep preferred to help prevent PIH in Fitzpatrick IV, V, VI types. Dryness with a great deal of flaking skin possible. (M)
Most everyone can use all the acids we have gone over thus far, but many of you will have some pretreatment requirements to apply them safely. See the graphic below to find out where you fall into line.
26 Responses
HI I NEED YOUR HELP. I HAVE HAD YEARS OF PEELS IN AN OFFICE, SO MY SKIN IS PRETTY TOUGH, A MATTER OF FACT ONE AESTHETICIAN TOLD ME THAT I RECEIVED THE HIGHEST NUMBER ALLOWED. I TRIED THE 13 % AND I NEVER FROSTED. I DID HAVE A FEW FLAKES IN THE NEXT COUPLE OF DAYS. SO I WANT TO MOVE UP IN STRENGTH FOR MY FACE. I ALSO WANT TO DO MY CHEST, THIS AREA NEEDS HELP, I HAVE PHOTODAMAGING, DARK SPOTS, JUST A MESS. I AM A II, AND OF EUROPEAN DECENT, I AM IN MY 50’S. I WANT TO DO MY HANDS TOO
If you have done 5+ layers of TCA 13 on your face/neck/chest .. then you want to move up to the 20% and start again at 1-2 layers. This is just a progression. Adding on layers as you go. Remember with TCA. Volume of solution is important. WET layers go deeper than DRY layers.
Frosting is NOT ever the goal. Frosting does not “make” you peel. Everyone is different. Here are some things you can try.
1. Try 1 or 2 layers of Jessners BEFORE your TCA layers.
2. Try Dream Peel as a finishing layer after your final layer of TCA.
3. Try Jessners before and Dream Peel After.
Work up to these advanced methods. Try Jessners alone first to make sure it works well with your skin. Same with Dream Peel if you have not used retinoids in the past.
Hi, In the peel choices chart it doesn’t mention the Dream peel at all. Is it part of the Superficial catagory or is it considered a Medium peel. I have the Dream peel but not sure whether I need to get the 13% TCA to begin with since that is a milder peel.
I’ll reply to your other question as well…
From Jen: “Dream Peel isn’t a chemical peel and anyone can use it. The biggest thing is to follow the recommendations and start with 1 night if you are sensitive. Next time do 2 nights… and 3 nights in the future. “
I have uneven skin (hyperpigmentation) and very dry sensitive skin. and I’m Asian with olive skin tone. Which peel is best for my skin?
Hi Jo, we answered your question on the Live! Just look for your name in the timestamped area. https://peeluniversity.com/peel-university-live-qa-january-20th-2022/
I haven’t done an in home peel before except glycolic acid, I’m 64 and have acne scars. I would really like to start with a TCA peel, I really think that would be most beneficial for me. What do you think aboit that for a beginner? Do I have to be a licensed to purchase?
Hey Reva we answered your question on the Live! Just look for your name in the timestamped area. https://peeluniversity.com/peel-university-live-qa-december-14th-2021/
I have heard that is not recommend to do a jessner peeling for fitzpatrick IV or higher can you please confirm this statement? I want to treat melasma
Hello Mari, This was answered on our recent live. At 5:07 in the video.
https://peeluniversity.com/peel-university-live-qa-february-24th-2022/
I have rosacea like cheeks:red and blotchy. No flakes or breakouts. my skin is normal/combination with large pores, hyperpigmentation, melasma and signs of aging. I purchased the mandelic 22% peels because of my sensitive cheeks. Will these peels help?
Hello Lu, This was answered on our recent live. At 1:56 in the video.
https://peeluniversity.com/peel-university-live-qa-february-24th-2022/
I am currently on Curology prescription with tretinoin included. When i do my peel, how can i incorporate my fade bright, curology prescription as well as your super cop serum before, during and after a TCA peel? for the record i am dark skinned ( Fiztpatrick level 5) and prone to pigmentation. i have watched a few of your videos and you mention prepping the skiing at least 2 weeks with f a melanin inhibitor in the morning and retin A in the evening which is what i am currently doing. I am needing guidance on when i start the peel, how and when can i incorporate Super cop serum, fadebright and my curology prescription.?
Also, can you do a video on the popular Bien/Biore TCA peel (35%) and how it is different from the normal TCA peels and how effective it is or not?
Hello. Please apply FB prior to any leave on serums or creams. Think of Fade Bright as a “toner”.
You can add copper into your regimen every evening after your tretinoin. So. … FB + Tretinoin + Copper.
I can’t state what is in this other TCA peel. If it is 35% and it is not burning or causing flaking, then it has been altered in some way to be gentler. Hence, not a true TCA 35% peel. New things are always coming out though – so always something to watch.
I am interested in a peel. I am of German origin, light-skinned, and burn at first and then tan dark. I lived in Florida most of my life and have some deep wrinkles on my forehead and sun damage. No skin cancer. I do wear an SPF daily now. What would you recommend for me?
Hello. What peel is recommended really depends on what You are comfortable dealing with. A Little flaking or a Lot and some “social downtime”. I want to send you here to our Peel Finder Tool: https://www.platinumskincare.com/peelfindertool
You will fill out your specifics and it will recommend the acid for you.
I suggest getting on a daily regiment that consists of: Fade Bright 2x per day for the hyperpigmentation and Fusion A Retinoid. These two are extremely important to prep your skin AND to start treating your concerns. We also have a full Regimen Builder Tool to aid in that here: https://www2.platinumskincare.com/regimen-builder/
Hello! Which (if any) of these products are breastfeeding friendly?
Thanks!
Hello there. Generally speaking pregnancy is the big no-no for acids like TCA, Jessners … and Salicylic (aspirin based). Now that you are breastfeeding, there are not actual recommendations for acids. I would confirm with your OBGYN to see if they feel any of these could be an issue for them. Also, see here: https://www.platinumskincare.com/blog/skin-care-ingredients-safety-during-pregnancy-and-breastfeeding/
This isn’t a comment per se, and it’s not a conventional question, but it is for Jen…I am wondering if and how you hire? And if you’re looking for any consultants? I love skincare and I have just discovered Platinum, and in like 2 weeks’ time I’ve already ordered from you guys like 3x. One of the things I *love* about your company is the incredible amount of technical information you provide. I’m very into the science behind skincare and I’ve turned sooo many people on to good skincare and its benefits. I work at a drug/alcohol detox and self-care is not an issue that most people have a relationship with, especially women. Once they get sober, it’s been incredible to help them see what a difference a good skincare routine can make. I’d love to work in the industry and I have great admiration for Platinum.
Hello there. Thanks for writing in. My goal is to have everyone feel GOOD in their skin. It is so important – self health! We are local here in Michigan and pretty much everyone works right in the facility. But… we do have people that area affiliates. This is something that anyone … anywhere could be a part of. We have a signup at the bottom of every page on the website. 🙂 We do like to set this up for those that have a social following or YouTube channel though … so, if that is not an avenue for you to share with it may not be a good fit. Hmmmm. It could be great if you made some videos for your women on how to fix their skin and feel good. You can demonstrate how to use a product … and have your link to click through. Well – just some thoughts. Jen
Hi,
I am level 5 in the chart above, but a 4-5 on the Fitzpatrick scale (central Indian descent). I had bad acne as a teenager and now have many box, rolling and icepick scars all over my cheeks. I have been using tretinoin for the past 3 years and I did a round of accutane last year which has essentially ‘cured’ my acne. I want to specifically target these atrophic scars. I have never used TCA or any other chemical peels so I was hoping for some feedback on what products (including ‘percentage and duration of use) is recommended from platinum skincare based on my goals.
Hello. I want to send you to 2 different videos. The one on scarring first. I suggest the Super Cop 2x evenings. *Start with only 3-5 nights. *It can be irritating. Stop/Start the copper as needed. Any redness/irritation just stop for a few days. You can certainly work up to 1x daily use. Fill IN the depressions and wipe off any excess. Here: https://www.platinumskincare.com/scar-treatment/
You can couple this with Serum 15 or Serum 30 … or you can do a peel. TCA CROSS is generally done with the 30% – but darker skin types can run into Pigmentation issues called PIH. Therefore you NEED to prep with a melanin inhibitor like our Fade Bright for 4 weeks prior … and I suggest starting with only a 20% TCA instead. See this video: https://www.platinumskincare.com/tca-cross-method-detailed-demonstration/
Thank you for the thorough education.,Gladys-I have (‘60’s)sun damage. I want to begin peeling with Lactic. Does this seem reasonable? Thanks
Lactic is a great choice if you want the least possible social downtime. We expect little to no flakes with the lactic peels. You can do this 1x per week or 1x every other week. Your choice. Expect some possible dryness for 3-4 days and then just smooth skin.
Hi. I ordered the mandelic 40 and the lowest TCA peel, fade bright and emu oil. Just starting and am Fitz level 2. Do you recommend using fade bright before starting these? For how long? Do people use the lowest TCA for their entire face and neck?
Hello. Using Fade Bright is always a great idea for anyone. We could all get PIH from any peels at any time. It is far less likely when the skin is a lighter color, but still possible. It is also a daily product to help fade back pigmentation on the skin and balance the texture and colors – so an excellent product for absolutely anyone. Absolutely! Use it for at least 2 weeks prior to starting your peel series. Right alongside your regimen including: Acid cleanser, Antioxidant, Moisturizer, SPF 50 and retinods. 🙂
Mandelic 40 and TCA 7 are excellent choices. You will want to use both on the face, neck, decollete if you are targeting age and pigmentation in these areas. If not … then just apply it to a single zone. *I always suggest at least – going down the neck too.