Unit Two

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Addressing Issues

While all acids will basically perform the same [skin removal] function, some acids are naturally better at targeting specific issues than others. While any acid could be potentially helpful, we will always recommend trying to choose the best one for the job.

We already mentioned individual uses in the Learning Acids section. 

For another quick tool, look at the following chart. This can help you to narrow down your acid choices:

Scars. On the chart above you will see that TCA is the only acid listed in treating scars. We want to take a moment to talk about a true scar – as opposed to just a pigmentation mark left after a peel. They are very different!

A surgery or deep blemish will leave a scar. This is a slightly different texture of skin that can be very pink, or light colored. A darker or lighter discoloration (PIH) is just that – a pigmentation change. This is not a scar. Here is an excellent video that will show you what you can use to treat scars.

Some scars are hypertrophic (raised) and won’t take well to having an acid peel applied. These are better treated with silicone strips and gels. A depressed scar though, such as an acne “ice-pick” scar is perfect for an acid peel.

The method called the TCA CROSS is one of the best ways to minimize these. The following video will go in depth – with a tutorial – on how to perform this method.

If you are in the Fitzpatrick 4-6 type, you can still potentially do a stronger TCA CROSS peel. We do need to stress that mandatory prep with a melanin inhibitor for at least 2-3 weeks must be followed.

You may use either the TCA 20 *of which we feel is the safest option for the darkest skin types, or you could potentially use the TCA 30. With these acid strengths on ethnic tones there is a higher risk of getting PIH, so understand that is a possible outcome [even with pretreatment] going in.

Here is a wonderful video from a customer of ours with a Fitzpatrick 4 skin tone. This is especially helpful as we are able to see how the scabs look on her darker skin. They are more visible than the lighter skin tones and you will want to know about that before you apply this method.

6 Responses

  1. hello. i’m reading and watching the videos but still not sure! (LOL)… so I am a Fitz 2-3 (fair skin, brown hair, hazel eyes) and 59 years old (glogau is 3). I want to start the process here with the goal of reducing the fine lines and the pigmentation. With that said, do you suggest I use the Jessner or a TCA in the lowest percentage acid %? thank you

  2. Hi can you tell me what peel I could buy from you for my melasma,fine line ,wrinkles, please,I want to buy soon,thank you Rosie from New York city

    1. Mandelic 40 is great as a weekly or every other week peel.
      On the off week (this works well) … Fade Bright and Fusion A . SPF 50.

  3. So what if I want to do a peel on my inner thighs and under arms I have hyperpigmentation on those areas and would like to remove them

    1. This is really common and I am going to give the LONG answer. Many people, especially those with ethnic/darker skin tones, get quite a large amount of discoloration on the vaginal area and around the buttocks. The underarms can be affected with this as well. This is so common that even spas are reaching out to us for ideas on how to treat these areas with peels.

      While we can’t say that this is something we have tested ourselves, we can tell you what we feel will work and what other spas are doing for their clients coming in with these same concerns.

      Firstly we want the area to be pretreated with a melanin inhibitor for 2-3 weeks. We suggest our Fade Bright or something with hydroquinone would be a good option. These will help to lighten the pigmentation with daily use on their own – and they will help to get your skin ready for a peel that will be less likely to get PIH*. Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation. Always make sure to hydrate when you are done applying as normal.

      **Before applying any peels wash the skin, use a prep solution or alcohol, and then protect any mucus areas you do NOT want acid applied to with vaseline or aquaphor or another suitable barrier ointment. Peels are NOT meant to be applied to mucus-producing areas.

      Option 1. Lactic 50% peel 1-2x a month. This is a milder peel that can be applied and left on 10-15 minutes and then rinsed. It will not cause a lot of flaking. Most likely you will not see any flakes. This will take a series of 6-8 peels.

      Option 2. Jessners peel 1x a month. Jessners is a stronger, layerable peel. Two or maybe 3 layers could be done with this peel.

      Option 3. TCA 13% at 2-3 layers.

      As with any peels results will be cumulative. The body will also take a longer time to flake than a facial peel. So the full month will be required before another peel (layerable) can be applied again.

      Daily Treatment Option

      We would also like to state that many everyday products can be just as helpful withOUT a peel.

      Fade Bright melanin inhibitor 1-2x per day.
      15% Bodywash
      Triple Treat 25% Body Lotion or Serum 30

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